The Vallée de la Restonica starts on the edge of Corte and climbs seventeen kilometres up between steep granite walls. Along the way you pass pines, chestnut woods and dozens of natural pools — dark green basins born of glacier melt. At the end of the road, an hour and a half on foot above, lies Corsica's most famous mountain lake.

What the Restonica is

The Restonica is a river of nearly 18 kilometres that rises around 2,000 metres on Monte Rotondo and joins the Tavignano at Corte. The valley around it — the Vallée de la Restonica — has been a listed heritage site since 1966 and lies partly within Corsica's regional park.

The valley is known for two things:

1. The natural pools along the river, where you can jump in between granite boulders into clear, cold water
2. The hike from the road's end up to Lac de Melu (1,711 m) and Lac de Capitellu (1,930 m), the deepest lake on the island

Tip The Restonica stays cool all year — under 18°C, even in August. Glorious on a hot day, but ease in: the shock of jumping straight in can be sharp.

The road up

The D623 runs out of Corte into the valley and is the only way in. It's narrow, winds between rocks, and gets steeper and tighter the higher you go. Somewhere halfway, a sign forbids campervans and coaches — and they mean it. Allow forty minutes' driving from Corte to the end of the road at the Bergeries de Grotelle at around 1,370 metres.

In July and August the road jams up morning and afternoon. So much so that the commune now imposes access restrictions: in peak season, between 09:00 and 18:00 you can only go up via a shuttle from a car park lower in the valley. Allow €5-10 per person return. Outside those hours you can still drive your own car up.

Tip Want to skip the shuttle? Leave Corte before 08:00, or wait until after 18:00. Early morning the pools are still quiet too — perfect for an early swim.

Pools along the river

You can stop almost anywhere along the D623 and walk down to the river. Signage barely exists — look for parked cars and follow the paths. A few of the better stops:

• Pont de Tragone (around 4 km from Corte) — the first serious swimming holes, easily reached
• Pont de Tuani — deeper pools, popular on hot days
• Bergeries de Grotelle (end of the road) — not the prettiest swim spot, but the start of the hike

The water is crystal clear and in the deeper pools you can see two to three metres down. The rocks around heat up in the sun and are perfect for lying out to dry. What you won't find: sandy spots. It's rocks all the way to the river — proper sandals or water shoes help.

The hike to Lac de Melu and Lac de Capitellu

From the Bergeries de Grotelle the trail starts up towards Lac de Melu. About an hour up, with serious altitude (350 m) and stretches where you scramble over rocks or hold a chain handrail. Not technical, but a real walk — fit-and-able territory rather than a stroll.

Lac de Melu sits at 1,711 m, in a cirque under the peaks of Capo a i Sorbi and Punta alle Porte. The lake's frozen for roughly half the year, and in July and August it's cold rather than cool. People still jump in for the story.

For more, you can carry on another hour up to Lac de Capitellu at 1,930 m — Corsica's deepest lake (42 m) and frozen for most of the year (eight months). This stage is steeper and more technical, with rock passages and snow patches in early summer.

From Capitellu you join the GR20 — keep going and you climb to the ridge with views over both the east and west coasts of the island.

Tip Start before 08:00 — not just for the crowds, but because by midday the sun's high above the cirque and the granite gives you no shade. Early also means fewer people at the lake itself.

What you need

• Shoes: proper walking boots or trail-runners. Trainers work but you're more likely to roll an ankle on the wet rocks
• Water: minimum 1.5 litres per person for the hike. At the lake you can refill — it's glacier water
• A light fleece — the lake can suddenly turn cold when the wind picks up or a cloud comes over
• A packed lunch: eat at Lac de Melu, not at the car. The setting is unbeatable

When and how long

• Best months: June and September. In July/August you've got shuttles and crowds; in May and October there can still be snow on the path to Capitellu
• How long: half a day for Lac de Melu and back; full day if you also go to Capitellu
• Full day in the valley: swimming pools on the way + hike up = the right combination. Hike in the morning, swim on the way down

Practical

• Getting there: from Corte, follow signs for "Restonica" from the centre. The other side of town is the Tavignano valley — equally beautiful and considerably quieter
• Parking: at Bergeries de Grotelle (in peak season via shuttle); other stops along the road are free
• Food and drink: no facilities in the valley. At the Bergeries sometimes a basic kiosk with tea and cheese. Otherwise bring your own
• Sleeping: in Corte itself, or in one of the small mountain inns in the valley (very limited — book well ahead)
• Combine with: a day in Corte for the citadel and the Musée de la Corse